I’ve been in the summer spirit full-force this season, so my world was understandably rocked when I realized that autumn is creeping up on upon us! Sort of. Technicalities aside, I think I’ve had a pretty summer-positive attitude this round, so I’d like to cool things off a bit and spotlight one of my favorite F/W 2013/2014 collections by dynamic Dutch duo, Viktor & Rolf. It’s been 13 years after all!
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf, emerged on the catwalk after a 13-year hiatus from couture. Yes, that is 13-years. The hiatus was put to bed July 3 in Paris, where the style-makers proved they still know how to put on a show.
Guests at the much-anticipated (I wonder why) show were greeted by a transformed floor covered in raked sand beads and stone arrangements. I don’t know about you lovelies, but I think entering a show that resembles a Zen garden more than a runway is something I can get behind. The stars of the show themselves kept the Zen flowing, assuming the Lotus position, center stage, while attendees tried to not kick up too much sand as they found their seats.
“After 20 years of running, we want to be happy with what we do and translate it into couture,” Horsting said. “We love couture. It is a great laboratory for experimentation,” said Snoeren.
After kicking things off with a three-minute meditation, visions in all black ruled the runway. The show wasn’t specifically an ode to Japan, where they have spent time, visiting temples in Kyoto. Instead it is a shout-out to mindfulness and being in the moment.
Minimalism was the word of the day during the show. Every piece was made in the same black material, treated to look like rocks and grass. Emphasis on shapes was heavy, the models molded together throughout the show to make several stone-like formations. If you’re thinking this sounds like sculpture, that is exactly what Viktor and Rolf sought to achieve.
Key pieces in the collection combined sculptural, voluminous gatherings of material with sheer panels and more simplistic (almost monastic) designs; some of the creations looked like Little Red Riding Hood dressed in black.
If you were under the impression that haute couture is mostly over-the-top eveningwear or outlandish designs, this collection was quite the opposite.
“It looks spare and austere, but we spent 1,000 hours creating these,” Snoeren said.
The show was more performance art than typical runway marching, but it makes sense, considering this return to catwalk antics also signifies their 20-year anniversary of making clothes so why not go big or go home?
Lovelies, what do you think of this concept/collection? Is this your idea of “zen”?